Lise Kryger

It was a bit of a coincidence that our stopover on the way back from Croatia would be in Mikulov. The situation was that we needed to choose two overnight stays on our route back to Denmark, and we were facing a wild weather system moving right over the cities and routes we had originally planned. We had never heard of Mikulov, but the distances on Google Maps worked out perfectly. When we looked up the town, it turned out to be a true fairytale place with beautiful houses, charming squares, and a real storybook castle. But even though we tried to avoid the bad weather, we were hit hard on the way there. From the moment we crossed the border from Croatia into Slovenia, the storm struck – lightning, thunder, and heavy rain made traffic come to a standstill several times due to poor visibility. The bad weather followed us all the way through Slovenia and up through Austria, right until we reached the Czech Republic… Where is Mikulov? Mikulov is located in the very south of the Czech Republic, almost right above the border when coming north from Austria. The town is situated in the heart of a Czech wine region. The road from the border was easy, and just a few minutes later the castle and the small hill with its characteristic chapel appeared on the horizon. We cheered – a long and exhausting drive was finally over, and we could hardly wait to explore the town. We drove up to our hotel, which turned out to be an authentic Czech vineyard. Staying at this vineyard became half of the adventure we experienced in Mikulov itself. Overnight stay at the Czech vineyard, Ryzlink Hotel Ryzlink turned out to be a family-owned vineyard that also operated as a hotel for visitors coming to the area to experience and taste Czech wines. Hotel Ryzlink, Mikulov And the hotel itself turned out to be a little adventure of its own. As soon as we had dropped our bags and taken a well-deserved shower, we went exploring the garden outside, which was filled with grapevines we could wander among. In the restaurant, which opened out onto the garden, we were served a welcome drink – a white wine they had produced themselves. It was nothing short of wonderful to sit there and enjoy the calm in the fresh air. Peter immediately headed out to the vineyards at Hotel Ryzlink in Mikulov Back in the room, which was actually more like a small apartment, they had left a bottle of Vinařství Fučík white wine – their own production – for us. The apartment was cozy, spacious, and above all quiet – truly quiet. We really appreciated that after a long and exhausting day of driving on the highway. We also had dinner, a delicious Czech meal, in the outdoor restaurant. Even though it was a bit chilly (compared to Croatia’s intense heat), there were blankets to wrap ourselves in. We went to bed early and slept well, ready for the next day’s adventure, which included yet another long drive – this time toward Poland. An adventurous morning in Mikulov It seemed luck was on our side in Mikulov. The rain had poured down before we arrived in town, and it also poured that morning when we woke up – but, conveniently, it stopped just as we headed into town. We packed the car and drove down to the town, parking on a quiet side street. The town was barely awake; garbage trucks were emptying bins, someone was sweeping the streets, and the sound of footsteps on the cobblestones revealed the few people already on their way to work. The birds were the only other ones making a sound. Everything was calm and peaceful. The old part of Mikulov Our plan was primarily to explore the old town center and visit the castle. Right where we had parked the car, we were already greeted by the characteristic Czech townhouses. They were painted in a kaleidoscope of colors, and many featured beautiful, flowering decorations around the windows and doors – or even directly on the walls. The old town of Mikulov The old town is small, easy to navigate, and full of little squares, shops, and cafés. It was clear that local wine holds an important place in the town’s life. We saw numerous wine shops and wine bars throughout the area. There are many cozy shops in Mikulov, Czech Republic The town’s main square, Mikulovské náměstí, is truly beautiful. The square is surrounded by pastel-colored Renaissance and Baroque buildings, including the Town Hall. Just behind the square, the cobblestone street leads up toward Mikulov Castle. In the background of the photo below, you can see Holy Hill with its chapel, Svatý kopeček. The old town square in Mikulov The town of Mikulov has only just awakened on a July morning The town is incredibly beautiful and has a fairytale-like charm, in a calm and almost “grown-up” way. I can easily imagine returning here later in life, simply sitting with a glass of wine and taking in life around me in the town, in an almost timeless, slow rhythm. Explore Mikulov Castle’s beautiful garden and views Of course, we had to visit the medieval old Mikulov Castle – the heart of the town and likely its pride. And understandably so: Mikulov Castle is truly striking, perched atop the town’s large rock. The route from Mikulov’s main square curves upward and passes through a gate, leading directly toward the castle. Mikulov Castle The short walk up to the castle is beautiful and lush, winding through the castle’s garden. Along the way, you pass a viewpoint offering the most stunning panorama of the entire town, with the vineyards stretching out in the background. The view over Mikulov with the vineyards in the background The walk up to Mikulov Castle was beautiful and quiet this morning The path ended in the castle town itself, where we could walk right into the castle courtyard. It was truly special to experience the castle so early in the morning, and we felt as if we had it all to ourselves. Around us, the wind whistled and dry leaves softly rustled across the cobblestones. It was still a little cool, but the morning sun promised that it would become really warm later in the day, as only the south – or the hottest summer days – can bring. The view from Mikulov Castle is stunning – with Svatý kopeček (Holy Hill) visible in the background What is “Holy Hill,” Svatý kopeček? Holy Hill, Svatý kopeček, is impossible to miss in Mikulov. This small limestone hill, topped with Baroque chapels, can be seen from almost anywhere in town and stands as a calm, almost watchful element in the landscape. The hill and its chapels were among the first things we noticed about Mikulov – we could see them from our hotel, from the town square, and from the castle. It is truly spectacular and beautiful. Svatý kopeček (Holy Hill) Even though we didn’t climb it ourselves, the hill became a constant part of our stay. It formed the backdrop for views over the vineyards and gave Mikulov a special sense of calm and presence – like a landmark we could always orient ourselves by. Svatý kopeček (Holy Hill) The old fire station in Mikulov On our way back to the car, we passed by a stunning building – the old fire station in Mikulov. The fire station is a protected cultural monument and is no longer in use. Yet it captivated us with its beautiful tower and rustic (yet somehow poetic) appearance. Our sightseeing in Mikulov lasted only a couple of hours, but what a lovely few hours they were. We took it all in, fully aware of how lucky we had been. The adventure was brief, but it gave us exactly the boost and joy we had been missing. With Mikulov behind us, the fresh morning wind in our hair, and warmth in our hearts, we got back into the car and drove out of town – energized and hopeful for new adventures ahead. Heavy drops fell on the car’s windshield as we drove out of town. Yes, we had truly been lucky in Mikulov. Useful links Mikulov Mikolov Castle Mikulov wine Here you can find Mikulov, Czech Republic

Lise Kryger

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