We had been talking for a long time about visiting Poznan by plane, but instead, we decided to make the city part of a road trip from Croatia. On our way home, we decided to stop in Poznan and stay for a couple of days to explore the city – and we certainly didn’t regret it.
We arrived in Poznan by car in the late afternoon. Getting into the city was relatively easy, even though we had booked accommodation in the Old Town. Finding a parking spot for our car was a little more challenging, though. We ended up having to temporarily leave the car in a rather suspicious-looking part of the city while we sorted out access to the hotel’s parking area.
As soon as we had dropped our luggage in the room and taken a quick nap, we headed straight into the city. We were staying pretty centrally, and the city’s old market square was practically just around the corner. What unfolded before us was the most charming Polish city centre, with beautiful historic buildings, plenty of cafés and restaurants, and a lively atmosphere.
Stary Rynek – Poznan’s Old Town Square
Normally, we’re not particularly drawn to places that are this touristy, but this was the final stop on our summer trip, which had been challenging in more ways than one. Sinking into a chair at one of the restaurants, enjoying some delicious and inexpensive Polish food and a large, cold beer, was exactly what we needed.
We sat there taking in the beautiful buildings and watching the incredible variety of people bustling around the square.
The square in Poznan’s Old Town is quite large. In fact, it is the third-largest market square in Poland, surpassed only by those in Krakow and Wrocław. The square was laid out as far back as 1253, when it was used for trade, crafts and political life. Twelve streets lead out from the square, making it a central hub with easy access from all directions.
Over the years, Stary Rynek has been expanded with buildings such as the Town Hall, St. Stanislaus Church (Fara Church), museums and a whole collection of small merchants’ houses. Many of the buildings were destroyed during World War II, which is why many of the buildings standing here today have been reconstructed.
It had been a long day, and we didn’t see much more than the old market square before heading to bed early. The next day, we explored Poznan on foot, taking our time to really take in the city – both with our feet and with our hearts. Here’s what we experienced in Poznan.
Explore Poznan on foot
There’s no doubt that Poznan is a great city to explore on foot. You could easily supplement your walks with the tram – and perhaps the bus as well. But we chose to discover Poznan on foot and enjoyed experiencing the city at our own pace.
We walked from the moment we got up until we returned late in the evening. Even after dinner, we often felt the need to head back out and take in a little more of the city. I have some difficulty walking and standing for long periods, so we took plenty of breaks, stopped for coffee several times, and also had lunch along the way. Whenever my son wanted to shop in the larger stores, I would often find a place to sit down and rest my leg.
But exploring Poznan on foot gives you the chance to experience the city’s size, vibe and charm one step at a time. Sometimes our walks also took us to more local places, simply because everything moves a little slower when you’re walking. And we really like that.
A visit to the charming Śródka district
Just outside Poznan’s city centre lies the charming district of Śródka, which we walked out to explore. On our way, we crossed the Love Bridge, Most Biskupa Jordana. The bridge offers lovely views over the river, where we watched small private boats, people fishing and others taking long walks along the riverside path.
In other words, even though we were outside the centre of Poznan, there was still plenty of life and activity around us.
The Śródka district feels a little different from the heart of Poznan. It’s quieter, with a handful of cafés and restaurants that are well worth visiting (see the example further down in the article). The cathedral is also located in Śródka, and the whole area almost feels like a little break for the soul from the tourism that surrounds Poznan’s Old Town.
The Love Bridge – Most Biskupa Jordana
As we walked across Most Biskupa Jordana, we noticed thousands of padlocks attached to the railing. We’ve come across this tradition in several places during our travels, but why do people actually attach love locks to bridges?
We read a little about the tradition, and it turns out to be a romantic ritual that couples in love have embraced in many places around the world. First, they engrave their names and perhaps a little symbol of love onto a padlock. Then they attach the lock to the bridge together and throw the key into the river.
Once the key has disappeared to the bottom of the river, the lock can no longer be opened. The padlock therefore becomes a symbol of love that has been sealed forever.
Try the Polish pierogi
You simply can’t visit Poland without trying pierogi. You’ll find them in many places, and they taste absolutely heavenly! Some friends recommended that we visit the small restaurant Na Winklu in the Śródka district to try their pierogi. It was a lovely little place, full of atmosphere and charm, and their pierogi were simply outstanding.
Pierogi are one of Poland’s best-known national dishes. They are usually made from dough filled with ingredients such as mushrooms, sauerkraut, potatoes and whatever else happens to be available.
The great thing about pierogi is that there are so many different varieties. They can be simple and traditional, but they can also be much more creative, and many restaurants have their own specialities and favourites. We certainly understood why this dish is so popular. They were absolutely delicious – and definitely one of the things we think you should try if you’re visiting Poznan.
See the mural in Śródka
The three-dimensional mural Opowieść Śródecka is a must-see if you’re visiting the Śródka district. It is painted on the gable end of a building and gives the impression that an entire town is emerging from the wall.
The mural was created by Gerard Cofta and designed by architect and artist Prof. Radosław Barek. It is an impressive sight and truly fascinating to stand in front of, taking in all the many intricate details.
Of course, Peter and Sebastian had to make an appearance in the artwork…
Visit the Cathedral: Parafia Rzymskokatolicka pw. Św. Apostołów Piotra i Pawła
As soon as you cross the Jordan Bridge on your way towards Śródka, you’ll come across the impressive cathedral, Parafia Rzymskokatolicka pw. Św. Apostołów Piotra i Pawła. The cathedral is considered to be one of the oldest in Poland and dates all the way back to the 10th century. It is also believed to be the burial place of Poland’s first king, Mieszko I.
The cathedral is open to visitors, and it is definitely worth stepping inside. It is impressive from the outside, but there is also plenty of history and beautiful details to discover inside.
Go shopping at Stary Browar
Poznan has several shopping malls if you feel like doing a bit of shopping during your stay. Sebastian was looking for a few more things, so we headed to Stary Browar, a former brewery and factory complex that has been transformed into a huge shopping and cultural centre.
The boy got to do some shopping, I got to rest my leg, and we all got to enjoy the beautiful old building, which still bears clear traces of its industrial past. Stary Browar is about much more than just shopping. It also houses art, museums, cafés and restaurants.
Outside, there is a large park where people were lying in the sun, relaxing and enjoying their packed lunches. It gave the place a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere – and made Stary Browar feel like much more than just another shopping centre.
After our long walk around Poznan and Śródka, we headed back to the hotel for a well-deserved nap. Later, we made our way back to the large market square, where we enjoyed a much-needed dinner and our final evening of the summer road trip.
Naturally, we ended the evening with a big, indulgent ice cream cone loaded with chocolate.
We spent two nights in Poznan and came home with hundreds of little adventures tucked away in our luggage. We can easily see ourselves returning to the city another time. So, if you happen to be in the area, we highly recommend making a stop in Poznan too – the city definitely has more to offer than you might expect.
Enjoy – and don’t forget the pierogi!
