Lise Kryger

Is there anything better than spending an autumn weekend in a European city? That’s exactly what we chose to do when celebrating our wedding anniversary – and this time, the choice fell on Berlin. Here’s what we experienced in just one day! Neither of us had truly explored Berlin before. We had both passed through the city on previous trips and driven past it on the highway several times. This time, we decided to really see and experience it – and so we did. Berlin, with its 3.5 million inhabitants spread across nearly 900 km², is no small city. We certainly felt that by the end of the evening when we realized we had walked 20 kilometers crisscrossing Berlin. Despite sore legs and feet, we were genuinely thrilled to have seen and experienced so much of the city on a good walking tour. Here, we’ve highlighted 9 sights we explored that you can also enjoy on your next trip to Berlin. 1. Experience Berlin's café culture Café Culture on the Way to Alexanderplatz, Berlin One of the things we wanted to spend our time on in Berlin was trying out some of the many Berlin cafés. Just sitting down, enjoying life passing us by, people-watching, soaking in the city vibes, and having quiet conversations over a warm cup of coffee. But things didn’t quite go as planned. We had done our homework beforehand, checking out several cafés through guidebooks and travel blogs (like this one from Kuffertogkompas.dk), and we had even selected a few to aim for. And aim for them, we did. There was just one small detail we overlooked: the distance. We had picked out a café in the Mitte district for our breakfast and morning coffee. To get there, we needed to walk through Tiergarten (the large forest-like park in the middle of the city, about 3 km long) and then a couple more kilometers beyond that. We didn’t see this as a big challenge. But our hunger and caffeine cravings did. Before we could reach our chosen café, we were tempted by another, random café we passed along the way. The café we stopped at was cozy and charming – and Berlin has plenty of those. We visited several throughout our stay. But it seemed like every time we set out for a specific café, it was always farther away than expected. And afterward, we’d often discover that an even cozier café was just around the corner. Tips to go: Never underestimate the distances in Berlin! 2. Cross the beautiful Tiergarten The first thing we did upon arriving in one of Europe’s largest cities was head straight into the forest. We simply couldn’t resist. Right in the heart of Berlin, laid out before us, was the most beautiful forest/park, Tiergarten, dressed in golden and red autumn hues. The name Tiergarten actually means 'Animal Garden' and comes from the wild boar and deer that once roamed there, hunted by the aristocracy in past centuries. Later, Tiergarten was transformed into a landscaped park, which was completely devastated during World War II. Today, this 212-hectare forest is a beloved destination, gathering place, and the go-to spot for walks or runs for Berlin residents. For many, it’s also the forest they cycle through when crossing Berlin. Autumn in Berlin 3. Brandenburger Tor Brandenburger Tor, Berlin I was a bit surprised to see the Brandenburg Gate emerge through the autumn foliage of Tiergarten. I had no idea the forest was so close to this landmark and attraction. I’ve seen the Brandenburg Gate before on a previous trip through the city, but I never realized how near it was to the park. The Brandenburg Gate is the oldest and last surviving city gate in Berlin. On this side, where the photo was taken, the now-demolished Berlin Wall once ran along the road, right up against the Brandenburg Gate. As such, the gate has become a symbol of the once-divided Berlin—or perhaps more accurately, a symbol of its unification and freedom after the wall came down in 1989. This is also where Ronald Reagan delivered his famous speech in 1987, using the now iconic words: 'Tear down this wall! 4. Feel the Berlin vibe Berlin U-bahn There’s something special about the vibe in Berlin. A sort of raw pulse of genuine city life. Authentic, historic, gritty, and exciting all at once. I once heard Berlin’s former mayor, Klaus Wowereit, say something similar about the city: 'Berlin is poor – but sexy.' Klaus Wowereit’s statement makes perfect sense as you move around the city. There’s no sugarcoating here—no sweeping things under the rug. What you see is what you get—raw and unfiltered. Whether it’s sexy… well, that’s up for debate. At times, we actually found it a bit challenging to enjoy the city. Some areas of Berlin felt downright bleak to us. It was as if the Cold War still seeped into our bones when we found ourselves in parts of the city that once belonged to East Berlin. Large, empty buildings with no character… But Berlin is more than lost history! It’s also full of hope, life, and genuine urban charm. That’s what I mean by the Berlin vibe. Peter finds his way, Alexanderplatz, Berlin 5. Berliner Fernsehturm The Berlin TV Tower can be seen from many places around the city. This massive TV tower rises with its gleaming metal dome above most of Berlin. Today, it is the fourth tallest free-standing structure in Europe, which is no small feat, standing at an impressive 368 meters. You can head up and enjoy a panoramic view of Berlin—either from the observation platform built for this purpose or while relaxing in the rotating restaurant and bar. 6.Checkpoint Charlie One of the landmarks we passed on our walk around Berlin was Checkpoint Charlie. Checkpoint Charlie was the most frequently used border crossing back when Berlin was divided. Several escape attempts from East Berlin took place here, which you can explore in depth at the Mauermuseum, located on the corner right next to it. What can you experience here? A checkpoint with costumed soldiers you can take selfies with, as well as stalls selling Russian military fur hats, matryoshka dolls, gas masks, and similar memorabilia. 7. Memorial to the murdered jews of Europe Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe In 2005, architect Peter Eisenman completed this monument to commemorate the Jews of Europe murdered during the Holocaust. The monument consists of 2,711 concrete slabs connected by cobblestone paths that you can walk through. Walking through the monument was both a deeply sad and strangely beautiful experience. The sadness is self-explanatory. You can't help but feel the cold, desolate sorrow and grief for the countless lives lost. But it was also beautiful because it was filled with life—children and adults playing tag and hide-and-seek in the many corridors. It felt accepted, as if the memories of a terrible past were pulling you back into the present, where life and hope still exist. The concrete slabs of the monument sit above an underground museum, where you can read selected life stories of the victims. A man walks thoughtfully among the large monuments. 8. Stolpersteine Stolpersteine, Berlin Did you know that in Germany, there are small stumbling stones embedded in the streets as a memorial to those who once lived there and were persecuted, deported, or murdered during the Holocaust? These stumbling stones are small brass plaques engraved with names, dates, and fates. There are up to 48,000 of them across Germany—and in Berlin alone, you’ll find no fewer than 3,000. These memorials have, in a way, become part of everyday life in Germany—a reminder to remember, but also to live with history. Most of the stumbling stones commemorate the murdered Jews, but some also honor other persecuted minorities, such as Romani people, homosexuals, people with disabilities, and many others. We "stumbled" across the stones you see in the picture above. They made us stop. Talk. Look up and sense that someone once lived here. It sparked many emotions and thoughts. 9. Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche Right next to where we were staying, we had a direct view of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. With its bombed-out tower and the newly built section covered in blue glass mosaics, it’s quite a remarkable sight. The church was originally constructed in 1895 in honor of Emperor Wilhelm I but was severely bombed during World War II. The church is a mix of old and new – much like the stumbling stones, it reminds us to live with history in the present moment. The church has several nicknames, including 'The Hollow Tooth,' 'The Powder Box,' and 'The Lipstick,' reflecting its unique appearance. Links Mauermusum More about Stolpersteine Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche calendar Berlin

Lise Kryger

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