Lise Kryger

There is a small collection of true gems in Denmark. Gems where each one reveals treasures you never even thought possible to find in this country. Encounters with these places leave a mark on you, so profound that you return to everyday life changed. Not because you were overwhelmed, but because nature awakened something alive within you – something that makes you see clearly again. Fanø is one such gem. Filled with untouched nature, wildlife, and adventures that revive you and make you breathe again. And just a little deeper. At least, that’s what we experienced when we spent three days in May on Fanø, staying at a friend’s summer house. And this, despite the northeast winds bringing icy Siberian gusts, rain, and sleet in the middle of spring. Undeterred by the cold, we braved the weather and ventured out into the chilly spring air. We let the island capture our hearts. And that’s exactly what happened. After a busy workweek and the chaos of traffic on the motorway, we left Jutland behind the moment we boarded the Fanø ferry. It felt as if we were being mentally transported away from everyday life and its worries. With every kilometer we drove from Nordby to Sønderho, where we were staying, it felt as though we were journeying deeper into another world. The car grew silent. This was promising. When the sun hits Fanø at 5:30 AM Sometimes, you do things that don’t feel particularly pleasant at first. But you do them anyway because you know they’ll lead to so many adventures that afterward, you can’t understand why you even hesitated for a second. That’s exactly how it felt when we set our alarm for sunrise on an early Saturday morning, got dressed, and headed out to experience Fanø. And yes, we were tired. But we couldn’t help rubbing our eyes in amazement at the sight that greeted us: just look at those clouds and that morning sun waiting to unfold. Morgensol ved Sønderho, meget meget tidligt om morgenen With the clouds and morning sun ahead of us, we drove down to the beach and hurried out. The Wadden Sea had receded, leaving the flat seabed before us, bare and exposed to the elements. The tides on Fanø rise and fall by up to 2 meters, cycling every 12.5 hours. It seemed we had arrived right in the middle of a cycle. As far as our eyes could see, there was beach, seabed, and sky. The clouds stretched from the heavens straight down to the water, reflecting as if they were checking themselves for a final "go" before the day began. The wind was strong that morning... and even though it might not look like it, it was freezing cold. It felt almost like being in the middle of a dream made of clouds. The clouds were both intense and delicate at the same time. It was as if they wrapped around us, both from above and below, making us spin in circles with excitement over how something could be so dramatic – so early in the day. Dramatic cloud formations on the beach at Sønderho, Fanø Bringing binoculars is a great idea when exploring Fanø We already knew there were seals on Fanø. We also knew they could be spotted as early as Nordby Harbour when arriving by ferry. Yet it still took half a day before we saw our first ones. And yes, we were definitely impatient… even though seals occasionally show up near our home, there’s something special about every encounter with them. Our first seals were actually in Nordby Harbour. It was quite early that morning, and after driving along the beach up the western side of Fanø, we decided to pick up fresh breakfast bread from Nordby. By the time we reached the eastern side, the tide had formed a sandbank in the middle of the harbor, and there they were – three magnificent seals basking in the morning sun. The joy of seeing these elegant, beautifully shaped seals was boundless and stayed with us until the moment we left Fanø on Sunday morning. As we prepared to board the ferry in our car, new seals had taken up residence in the very spot we first saw them, as if to give us a proper send-off. This seal was basking in the sun in Nordby Harbour But there are seals on Fanø. And plenty of them. On Sunday morning, we checked the tide tables and ventured out onto the Wadden Sea flats to reach Galgerev, a spot we had heard was a favorite sunbathing place for seals. The walk across the seabed was bitterly cold that morning. Sebastian and Peter didn’t have waterproof shoes, so their feet quickly turned icy. The wind was still coming from the east, and to put it mildly, it was freezing. About half an hour of walking across the Wadden Sea brought us to the natural channel that separates the beach from the seals’ sunbathing area. From there, we stood and watched the seals basking peacefully, undisturbed and safely separated from us by the water. The seals were lounging on Galgerev, Fanø. The seals are truly enjoying themselves on Galgerev, off Sønderho beach, Fanø Fanø’s vast beaches Fanø’s beaches are expansive and wide, stretching as far as the eye can see. When the tide recedes, they feel endless. And even as the water pulls back, you can still hear the roar of waves crashing against the sandbanks far, far beyond the horizon. The beaches are windswept, covered with the finest sand, smooth stones, seaweed, shells, and birds scavenging for crabs and other tiny treasures. The birds skittered across the beach like tiny, light seashells in the wind The beach is filled with driftwood, seaweed, stones, and shells, creating a sculptural landscape The beaches are filled with driftwood, branches, seaweed, stones, and shells, Sometimes taking on a sculptural look. To the north, you’ll find Fanø’s largest sand desert – Søren Jessens Sand. Here, the sand is chalk-white, fine, and forms beautiful ripples, just like the waves out at sea. Peter and Sebastian on the beach, Fanø It’s hard to grasp just how much wind there is until you’ve stood on a Fanø beach Fanø is famous for its amber. However, we didn’t find any amber that weekend. Instead, we stumbled upon what is known as "jet stone." I picked it up, noticing it felt just like amber. But it was black... so I tossed it aside. Yet something made me go back and pick it up again. I tapped it against my teeth and thought, Well, I’ll be darned! This needed further investigation. It wasn’t a stone – but what was it? Jet stone, in short, is fossilized coal, consisting of 98% carbon – just 2% away from being a diamond. Jet stones were once highly fashionable and used to create mourning jewelry and grave ornaments, until onyx entered the market in the late 1960s. Today, jet stones are rarely used but are still about three times as valuable as amber. Once we knew what to look for, we began spotting jet stones everywhere. Some of the pieces we brought home turned out not to be fossilized, but a good portion of them were. It was an unexpected adventure we hadn’t anticipated taking with us. My first discovery of jet stone, Fanø The houses on Fanø One of the first things we noticed upon arriving on Fanø was the houses. Beautiful, colorful, and full of charm, they dot the island like pearls. There’s no doubt that many of Fanø’s houses are rented out. The market for summer house rentals is clearly thriving, and you’ll see plenty of Novasol logos around the island. That said, the houses are undeniably charming. It’s not just because they’re nestled amid dunes, surrounded by breathtaking nature – they’re also incredibly beautiful and distinctly Fanø-like. They evoke thoughts of the island’s rich history and culture, adding to their allure. When Fanø’s wildlife takes your breath away One of the things that completely amazed us was Fanø’s wild animal life. Everywhere we went, there were animalsor – clear signs that animals had been there. On Saturday morning, around 6 or 7 o’clock, we spotted wild deer running through the “streets” of Nordby, darting in and out of people’s gardens. This was right after we’d seen seals basking in the harbor. Fanø is teeming with wildlife: deer, hares, rabbits, eagles, fascinating bird species – and, of course, seals. But beyond the wild animals, we also encountered these wonderful cows, Scottish Highland cattle, and beautiful black sheep. Not wild, perhaps, but a delight to behold nonetheless. There was a whole lot of grass munching that evening, just outside Sønderho, Fanø These cows are Scottish Highland Cattle, standing beautifully amid the greenery Peter gazes out over the beautiful southern Fanø The bird sings so beautifully, heralding spring, summer, and bright nights Fanø sheep out in the late hours The sheep seemed to enjoy themselves in the last rays of sunlight There were Violets everywhere on Fanø while we were there Fanø’s authentic (and recognized) nature There’s no doubt that Fanø is one of Denmark’s true natural gems. For us, it feels entirely fitting that the Wadden Sea was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. This recognition means that Fanø’s natural areas and structures hold an exceptional, universal value acknowledged by the global community as vital to us all. Fanø’s nature is authentic. It’s wild and a true microcosm of animals, plants, and unique natural treasures found nowhere else. Sønderho Mill in the evening sun, Fanø The birds return: Fanø in May Bird migration over Fanø Børsen, Sønderho. Fanø. Rooftops in Sønderho, just minutes before sunset. Fanø. Fanø: A place that struck me deeply Fanø became one of the few places in the world to truly strike me – not just with adventure, but something much deeper. Not mere infatuation, but something more profound. Something my innermost self recognizes yet has no words for. Perhaps it’s a sound, perhaps a vibration... maybe a rhythm... or perhaps it’s something within us all when we feel at home – or simply seen. But how wonderful it is to be struck. How delightful to let yourself be seduced. And how fortunate we are to have such a gem so close, just half a tide cycle away. xxx Fanøtips to go Bring Warm Clothing: The windswept days on Fanø can catch you off guard, so be prepared for the chill. Check the Tide Tables: Always stay informed about the ebb and flow before venturing into the Wadden Sea. Don’t Forget Binoculars: There’s always something fascinating to see on Fanø that you won’t want to miss. Links Visit Fanø Naturstyrelsen Seværdigheder på Fanø (danish) Fanølinjen fartplan (danish) Ravhuset: Om jetsten (danish) Where is Fanø located?

Lise Kryger

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