Do you love heavenly horizons, crystal-clear seas, and wild, untamed nature right on the city’s doorstep? Then I think Bonifacio should be on your list of must-visit places the next time you travel to Corsica.
We’ve been to Corsica four times now, and during those trips, we’ve visited Bonifacio a total of six times. You’d think we know the city inside out by now, but this year turned out to be the year Bonifacio truly swept us off our feet with experiences we’ve completely overlooked during our previous visits.
Bonifacio is located at the southernmost tip of the Corsican peninsula and is also the city you sail into when coming from Sardinia. The city isn’t particularly large, with a population of just about 3,000 spread across the narrow strip of land that forms the natural harbor where ships and ferries dock.
This city is like no other. For some reason, it feels like I’m rediscovering it anew every single time I visit. It’s as though every fresh angle reveals yet another adventure and experience waiting to be woven into the story.
Bonifacio is perched on a limestone cliff, 70 meters above the water, providing it with natural protection for centuries. Like many other Corsican towns, it features narrow streets and old buildings that wind their way up from the harbor, climbing the cliffs to reach the Bonifacio Citadel.
The first few times we visited the town were during ferry trips to and from Sardinia. We didn’t really explore the city, simply driving through it quickly. But what incredible adventures we missed out on.
Below, I’ll describe these adventures and explain why we think they should not be overlooked.
Adventure 1: Bonifacio’s white cliffs
Do you know the feeling of visiting a destination with the intent of experiencing something specific, only to forget it entirely because you get swept away by all sorts of other adventures? That’s how we’ve always felt about Bonifacio’s white cliffs.
For a long time, we’ve wanted to see Bonifacio’s white cliffs. Maybe it’s because we spotted them on our ferry trips to and from Sardinia, rising from the azure sea and reflecting the sun’s intense rays. Maybe it’s because they’re exceptionally rugged yet seem so delicate with their white, porous edges. Or perhaps it’s simply because they don’t resemble anything we’ve seen elsewhere—if anything at all.
But time and again, we let the white cliffs slip our minds, caught up in other adventures and warm midday hours. Every time we returned home to Denmark, we’d think, “Darn it, we missed them again.” But this time, we took a detour around the town, turned off the road, and followed the coastal path southeast. We parked the car, stepped out, and there they were.
It was so steep. It was so incredibly beautiful. What an adventure to stand there, gazing out over the deep blue sea, with ferries and ships gliding past below us in every direction. Bonifacio sat atop the peninsula like a white meringue with a glaze of wild roses, looking so inviting, just waiting to be explored. Take a look here:
Adventure 2: King Aragon Alfonso V’s 187 steps
Bonifacio can get extremely warm to walk around, yet every time we visit, it’s as if we’re drawn to the town’s many staircases. It’s almost as if we feel an irresistible urge to climb higher, to ascend toward the sky and see it all from above. And every time we reach the top, we’re reminded just how hot it can get in this little town. The harbor provides a slight breeze, but it’s not until you reach the top of the stairs that you feel the wind again.
Then comes the descent—down 187 steps carved directly into the cliffs, leading you to the sea on the other side. If you hesitate to go down because it looks too hot, I can assure you that the white limestone cliffs reflect the sunlight directly onto you, doubling the heat. It’s warm, no doubt about it.
But it’s also breathtakingly beautiful. The sea’s colors shift between the lightest turquoise shades and the deepest, richest navy blue you can imagine. It’s an unforgettable sight that makes every step worth it.
It’s not just us tourists who love the area. The local young people were there too, swimming out to the cliffs, where they climbed vertically up the steep rock faces and took daring dives. It looked risky, and I wouldn’t recommend trying it unless you’re with locals or someone familiar with the area.
A young couple had found their way into one of the rare patches of shade cast by the cliffs. I was standing in the shade myself when I looked up and caught sight of Bonifacio’s most iconic view of the citadel. Beautiful and impressive from a worm’s-eye perspective.
Adventure 3: A cold beer at one of the harbor cafés
Is it particularly Corsican to sit at a (touristy) harbor in Bonifacio and enjoy a cold beer? I know it’s probably not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Corsica, but…
Sitting here with a cold, sparkling beer, breathing in the salty scent of the sea, while the gentle sounds of boats bobbing in the water fill my ears, is one of my favorite things to do. I sit here with my husband and my son, sweat trickling down all of us, and I can’t help but think how lucky I am.
Around me is the most delightful Corsican town, the most stunning turquoise sea, the scent of salt, the harbor, and the boats… and in this moment, I see our entire trip flash before me. Our many, many conversations about what we wanted to do in Corsica, the planning, the packing, that first morning as we drove onto the highway, our stops down through Europe, the blown-out tire in Switzerland, the morning in Genoa’s port, the ferry crossing… and the overwhelming joy I felt when I saw Corsica emerge once again from the blue, blue sea.
It’s in these quiet moments during my travels that I experience the greatest travel memories. And no, it doesn’t have to be on a harbor café with a cold beer… that’s incidental. But sometimes it’s these small pauses in the middle of all the adventures—like sitting at a harbor—that awaken something in me.
Corsica has a way of doing something to people. It really does.
Other corsican adventures in Bonifacio we still have yet to experience:
- La Citadelle (Bonifacio’s Fortress)
- Pertusato lighthouse
Did you know by the way?
- Corsica and Sardinia were once connected as one large island until a volcanic eruption split them into two.
- The strait between Sardinia and Corsica is filled with shipwrecks, making it a true adventure for many divers!
Links
-> Tourist Office of Bonifacio
-> Pertusato lighthouse
