December brought several special occasions: our son was going on a school trip to Berlin, and we had both our 20th anniversary as a couple and our 15th wedding anniversary to celebrate. What could be more fitting than a little Christmas getaway? That’s exactly what we thought, and we chose Bucharest as the place to celebrate our love.
But is it even possible to experience the city in just two days? Here’s what we managed to see on our trip.
Romania might seem far away, but from Billund, it was actually only a 2½-hour flight to Bucharest. We were excited to experience the city: What was the atmosphere like? Would there be snow? And how did people in a big city like Bucharest celebrate the Christmas season?
The first thing that struck us was how beautiful and captivating the road into Bucharest is, full of striking contrasts – grand old buildings mixed with more worn and rundown areas. During our short visit, we only managed to see a few parts of the city, but what we saw was very different from what I had expected.
It quickly became clear that, while Denmark’s trees and forests had long since shed their leaves, Romania’s trees were still dressed in the beautiful colors of autumn. Where we in Denmark experience a somewhat dark and dreary transition from autumn before winter sets in, Romanians enjoy going straight from the warmth of autumn into the cold and snow of winter. We were even treated to a heavy snowfall on the morning we left.
Bucharest – or Little Paris
We stayed within walking distance of the Old Town, and the walk to our hotel and down to the historic center was truly beautiful. The biggest surprise for me was the similarities with French architecture that greeted us. In fact, Bucharest is often called ‘Little Paris’ (in Romanian, Micul Paris). This nickname comes from its historic architecture, cultural development, and lifestyle, which in the 19th and early 20th centuries closely resembled that of Paris.
At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th, Bucharest underwent extensive modernization, with many buildings constructed in a French style, visible in the city’s wide boulevards and monumental structures, such as the Arch of Triumph (Arcul de Triumf), which is directly inspired by Paris (see photo above).
In the 19th century, France was a major source of inspiration for Romania’s elite. French became the preferred language among the aristocracy and was used in both diplomacy and education. Many Romanian architects and artists studied in Paris and brought French styles and ideas back to Romania.
By the early 20th century, Bucharest had earned a reputation as one of Eastern Europe’s most modern and sophisticated cities, earning it the nickname ‘Little Paris.’ The city was seen as a cultural and intellectual hub, inspired by the elegance and grandeur of Paris.
Although Bucharest has changed a great deal since then, the nickname endures as part of the city’s historical identity. Yet Bucharest is more than just a ‘Little Paris.’ The city is deeply rooted in Romanian traditions, shaped by its unique position between East and West and its years under communism. Its identity is inextricably linked to Romania’s history and values, making Bucharest truly special.
The Palace of the Parliament, Palatul Parlamentului
One of the major sights we wanted to see in Bucharest was, of course, the enormous building: the Palace of the Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului). The Palace of the Parliament is the second-largest administrative building in the world (after the Pentagon) and was constructed during Nicolae Ceaușescu’s regime in the 1980s. Today, it houses the Romanian Parliament as well as several museums.
It’s pretty overwhelming to stand in front of this gigantic building. The palace is located at the end of the grand boulevard, Bulevardul Unirii. Bulevardul Unirii was originally planned as part of Ceaușescu’s vision for the city and was said to be one of the most impressive streets in Bucharest. The boulevard’s grandeur was designed with its wide layout and symmetrical structure, meant to match the palace’s magnificence.
The day we visited, the sun was shining, and the trees along the boulevard glowed with their golden-red leaves. All that was missing was the snow, which was just about to fall – had we stayed one more day, we would have experienced it.
The Old Town, Lipscani, in Bucharest
There’s no doubt that if you only have a few days to see Bucharest, the Old Town, Lipscani, is a must-visit. This is where the city’s heart beats, with its medieval charm, cobblestone streets, and historic buildings.
It’s also in Lipscani that you’ll find a lively mix of small shops, cafés, and restaurants – and if that’s your thing, bars and nightlife as well.
The area is home to small theaters, galleries, and museums, including the National Museum of Romanian History (Muzeul Național de Istorie a României).
For us, Lipscani became the area where we wandered and felt the city’s pulse and rhythm. Here, it’s calmer and less dominated by the noisy traffic found outside the district.
While wandering around the Old Town, we came across the charming little Stavropoleos Monastery. In the courtyard, we could see a small gathering and a little ceremony of some sort, and it was clear that this was a church that was actively used.
Lipscani also had areas that felt really lively. The streets were filled with cafés, and it smelled as if a party had been going on all night – for several days, perhaps. We had read about the area beforehand, and since we always check hotel reviews before booking, we avoided staying right here due to the nightlife noise.
But despite the party atmosphere, Lipscani also has many lovely little shops. For example, we visited the beautiful Cărturești Carusel Bookstore, which was wonderfully decorated for Christmas.
During our tour of Lipscani, a Romanian woman suddenly tugged at my sleeve. At first, I thought she might be trying to scam us, but she simply wanted to tell us a bit about the area and a very special place we should visit. The place she mentioned turned out to be a historic building that we would never have noticed otherwise.
The building is called Hanu’ lui Manuc, which houses a restaurant and cafés. Its shops offer Romanian dishes, and it has a lovely courtyard. Hanu’ lui Manuc is considered both a cultural and gastronomic highlight of Bucharest.
We were on our way to see Ceaușescu’s house, so we felt we didn’t have time to visit this place on this trip. But next time, we will definitely go back and see what it has to offer.
Visiting Ceaușescu’s House
One of the experiences we were particularly looking forward to on our trip to Bucharest was seeing Ceaușescu’s house. We can both still remember when Ceaușescu and his wife were executed, and how that story reached us all the way in Denmark.
Today, their house stands as a museum, preserved as it was when they left this world. Their furniture, clothing, and even their nightwear are still on display. It is a very intense experience.
A brief overview of Ceaușescu
Our understanding of who Nicolae Ceaușescu was, in short, is that he was Romania’s communist leader from 1965 to 1989. He ruled the country with a brutal and oppressive regime, which included extensive surveillance, censorship, and a personality cult centered around himself and his wife, Elena.
Ceaușescu’s choices and priorities led to severe poverty, food and energy rationing, and a low standard of living for the population. His grand construction projects, such as the Palace of the Parliament, further drained the country’s finances.
In December 1989, widespread dissatisfaction culminated in a revolution. After a violent uprising, Ceaușescu and Elena were captured, brought before a swift military tribunal, and convicted of genocide, oppression, and economic devastation. They were executed by firing squad on December 25, 1989. Their downfall marked the end of communism in Romania.
But when we drove out to their abandoned house in an Uber for a tour, a somewhat different and surprising story was shared with us.
Their own story of Ceaușescu
It became clear that Ceaușescu was not necessarily seen as the sole problem. Many actually viewed the period under his rule as better, with less poverty and more opportunities. There was also a perception that his execution was not truly the will of the people.
During the tour, a few questions came up about Ceaușescu’s wealth and his role for the people. It quickly became clear, however, that this was a sensitive topic that people preferred not to discuss. There was no willingness to label him as a villain in the country’s history.
It was mentioned that especially older citizens associate Ceaușescu’s era with stability and security, particularly regarding unemployment and crime. This is especially true for those who struggled during the transition to capitalism after 1989, when many experienced economic uncertainty. At the same time, it became clear that many young people in Romania are also divided in their views of the past. For some, communism may not seem so bad when compared to the challenges brought by the transition to democracy and a market economy.
It was truly a fascinating experience to see how Ceaușescu and Elena lived and to gain perspective on historical events. But in many ways, it was even more fascinating to discover just how diverse the perspectives on these historical events are.
Discover Bucharest’s many cafés and restaurants
After a long walk through the Old Town and visiting Ceaușescu’s house, we were ready for some food and drinks. There was no shortage of options. Bucharest is full of restaurants, cafés, and eateries – and the prices are so reasonable that you can enjoy them without feeling like money is flying out of your pocket with every bite. We visited quite a few, and I love making pit stops to sip coffee, try a local snack, or go out for dinner in the evening.
We were somewhat surprised to learn that smoking indoors is completely normal, even in restaurants. I used to smoke myself but quit nearly 20 years ago. Since then, I’ve become extremely sensitive to smoke, feeling discomfort and nausea in smoke-filled rooms. As a result, we skipped several cafés and restaurants where the smoke was too heavy.
Are two days enough in Bucharest?
Bucharest turned into a small, enchanting Christmas adventure, where we experienced one of Europe’s most beautiful capitals. The city offered us a glimpse into its fascinating history, all wrapped in the charm of autumn and the magical atmosphere of Christmas.
After all, Christmas is the season of the heart, so of course we also celebrated love! But that wasn’t all. We could easily have spent several more days exploring the city.
Other Christmas Adventures on Your Bucharest Getaway
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Christmas Markets: The largest market takes place at Constitution Square (Piața Constituției), in front of the Palace of the Parliament.
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Ice Skating Rinks: There are several ice rinks around the city, including one at Constitution Square.
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Concerts and Cultural Christmas Experiences
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Christmas Lights and Decorations: Bucharest’s streets and squares are beautifully illuminated with festive lights and decorations.
