Every time we travel, we always do something special on the last day of our trip. Usually, it involves good food. That was also the case on this day – our final day on our Corsica journey. That day, we were looking for a truly authentic Corsican treat. We dreamed of eating local food in rustic surroundings, preferably close to nature. But choosing wasn’t easy. What should we go for? It was our last day, after all, and we really wanted it to be a great experience.
This is how we found the restaurant L’Ortu Di Rotani
We did our research on Google, trawled through Tripadvisor, searched Google Maps – and still felt unsure. In the end, we decided on a restaurant located 5 km west of Aléria, heading towards the mountains, but not quite in the mountains yet. We trusted the reviews and the photos of the place, which looked both welcoming and cosy.
But as we approached the address, we almost turned around. We couldn’t see any restaurant at all. At the address we were following stood an old Corsican house, and a small wooden sign reading L’Ortu Di Rotani pointed towards the driveway. We took the chance, risking a wasted drive or accidentally entering private property, and ended up in what looked like a small garden or field. Behind us was a small outbuilding that resembled a little country eatery, with soft Corsican music drifting out into the garden where we stood.
There were already a few guests seated and eating when a man came to greet us. We were warmly welcomed and shown to a table with an open view and a cooling breeze. The man spoke quite good English, explained the menu to us, and we were immediately served cold drinks.
The restaurant was exactly as rustic as we had dreamed of. Everything appeared homemade and thoughtfully put together, creating a cosy atmosphere that sparked our curiosity. The kitchen was open, allowing us to watch several chefs focused on their cooking. Outside the building was a small field of wild plants, along with a slightly overgrown vegetable patch and a greenhouse. Three old caravans and a tractor stood nearby, and everything seemed to breathe peace and calm. Two butterflies danced around the flowers, and from nearby we could hear the hens clucking.
As the breeze wiped the beads of sweat from our bodies and we sipped a local soda, we talked about our journey and about how much we love the island. We also wondered who owned the restaurant – whether it was a family-run place with staff – and whether the food would be as delicious as the place felt like an oasis.
When the best of Corsica is served
And then the food arrived at the table. Sebastian had ordered “zucchini and garden mint fritters, fennel and cauliflower cream, with a peppery, meaty seasoning,” and we ordered the same, plus a dish of “Bastia-style anchovies and tapenade with herbs from the garden,” so we could try two different dishes. The food was plated just as beautifully as Corsica itself.
Beyond the stunning presentation, the zucchini and garden mint fritters with fennel and cauliflower cream and peppery, savoury seasoning were some of the best food we had tasted in a long time. Perfectly balanced and gentle, the dish awakened our senses and invited them to explore the many directions the flavours unfolded.
The Bastia-style anchovies and tapenade with garden herbs were saltier and more assertive – truly delicious and new to both of us, yet also very powerful. Fortunately, the mild herbs and vegetables helped balance the intensity beautifully.
Corsica’s traditional Fiadone dessert
For dessert, we enjoyed the traditional Corsican cake Fiadone, a ricotta-style cheesecake. The cheese used for this cake is the Corsican sheep’s or goat’s cheese Brocciu. The cake is moist, sweet, and fresh thanks to a hint of lime – absolutely perfect for warm days in Corsica. We had seen it in many places and it is available all over the island, but never had we seen it made so beautifully – nor enjoyed it quite as much.
Do you know that feeling of chasing a dream and hoping for something that at least comes close, only to end up with something that exceeds your dreams by far? That was exactly how we felt after enjoying our lunch at L’Ortu Di Rotani. We were full, but only in that perfect way. Quiet – but only because we had been so absorbed in the place, the people, and the utterly wonderful and beautiful food. Happy and content, our stomachs full of Corsica’s calm, wild nature, and sense of adventure. A little sad because we were about to leave this beautiful island. Satisfied by the wonderful meal, yet still hungry for more of Corsica.
Thank you to L’Ortu Di Rotani for giving us the opportunity to feel so at home and to enjoy this beautiful Corsican food adventure.
