What makes you return to a town you visited many years ago? Is it the hope of the joy of recognition? The thought of something truly special that you just have to experience again? Or was there something that still stirred you a little every time you thought of the place, nudging you, reminding you that there was something you hadn’t yet experienced?
It was that lingering itch that brought us back to L’Île-Rousse, on Corsica’s northwest coast – and we didn’t regret for a second returning.
Our First Encounter with L’Île-Rousse
Our first encounter with L’Île-Rousse was in 2012, when Sebastian was four years old. One day, we drove through the beautiful mountain landscape and arrived in L’Île-Rousse, planning to see the town and grab a bite to eat before heading back home. The trip ended up being longer than we had expected – two hours each way. We arrived, wandered around the town, Sebastian played on a playground, we ate pizza, and then we drove back. Our experience of the town was fragmented, and for a few years after, we didn’t think much about it.
It took three more trips to Corsica before we suddenly felt the urge to see it again. L’Île-Rousse suddenly felt like a gentle itch we couldn’t ignore – an itch that stirred memories of beautiful buildings, sidewalk cafés, sunsets, and the pink glow on the plane tree-lined avenues… We listened to it. It was time to experience L’Île-Rousse, properly!
And afterward, we could only ask ourselves: why didn’t we do this sooner?
Discover the Old Town of L’Île-Rousse
It’s the old town, also known as La vieille ville, that forms the most captivating part of L’Île-Rousse. The old town is a maze of narrow, cobblestone streets lined with historic buildings, churches, and squares. The old town brings together the town itself, the beach, the train station, and access to the stunning rocky peninsula, Fanale di Petra.
The houses in L’Île-Rousse reflect Corsican architecture with its rustic charm. Most are built from stone with simple, solid façades. The colors vary, but many are painted in warm earthy tones like terracotta, ochre, and beige, perfectly suited to the sunny Mediterranean climate. The roofs are often made of red tiles. I absolutely love them!
In the old town, the houses are closely packed along narrow, winding streets, creating an intimate and cozy atmosphere. Many of the buildings have small shops or cafés on the ground floor, bringing the streets to life with activity.
Elsewhere, the town is generally quiet, relaxed, and charming – very much in tune with the Corsican way of life.
It gets hot wandering the town’s streets under the midday summer sun… but just around the corner lies what many come to L’Île-Rousse for:
The beach…
Cool off in the waves of the stunning L’Île-Rousse town beach.
Just outside the town lies Plage de L’Île-Rousse, and it’s far from unpopular – and for good reason. The beach was some of the most beautiful we had seen in a long time: pure white sand, crystal-clear, sparkling turquoise water that shifts to azure, and the softest sandy seabed. It was absolutely breathtaking.
When we visited the town many years ago, we didn’t see the beach at all. We were actually quite surprised that such a beautiful beach was so close by, and yet we hadn’t noticed it. The beach was popular, but not overcrowded, and there was a sense of calm over the area. Unfortunately, we hadn’t brought our swimwear (so definitely remember it if you visit the town!).
Instead of swimming in the beautiful waves, we walked along the promenade toward the peninsula just off the town.
Get the most stunning view from the Fanale di Petra peninsula
You can walk, cycle, or drive out to the peninsula, which lies just outside L’Île-Rousse. We chose to walk – of course, right in the midday sun and heat, slathered in high-factor sunscreen, with plenty of water in our bag, and the camera – but unfortunately without the drone, which we had forgotten to bring.
The view from out there is absolutely breathtaking. You can see back toward the town of L’Île-Rousse, as well as across the mountains of the Balagne region. The coastline stretches endlessly, and the sea is an infinite shade of blue, as far as the eye can see.
In the old days, the island was used as a defensive outpost, ideal for keeping watch for enemy ships, pirates, and other threats from the sea. In the 16th century, a Genoese tower was built, and later, in 1793, a lighthouse was added as well.
The granite peninsula is impossible to miss, visible from far away whether you arrive by car or by boat. Île de la Pietra means “Island of Stone” in Italian, referring to the island’s distinctive red granite cliffs. These cliffs gave L’Île-Rousse its name, which translates to “The Red Island” in French.
At the ferry terminal, you can stop for a bite to eat and a drink at Brasserie du Port. That’s exactly what we did – a refreshing break in the heat.
Grab an ice cream at the shady Piazza Pasquale Paoli
Our trip to Fanale di Petra had been very hot, so a delicious (and very large) ice cream became the main topic of conversation all the way back to town. And of course, we got one.
In the heart of L’Île-Rousse, you’ll find the lively Piazza Pasquale Paoli, surrounded by cafés, restaurants, and shops – many of which serve ice cream. That’s where we got ours, and we can highly recommend stopping by to cool off.
Take the train through Corsica from the old train station
We know we’ll have to visit Corsica again. One reason is this beautiful train station, right in the center of L’Île-Rousse, and the fact that we still haven’t given ourselves the experience of traveling through Corsica’s mountains and landscapes by train.
The train journey through Corsica is said to be a must-do. Every time, however, we’ve hesitated at the price and kept agreeing that we’d rather spend the money on delicious Corsican food.
But one day, surely we’ll have had enough Corsican food – we just have to go back!
Aside from the dilemma of choosing between tasty Corsican food or the train ride through Corsica, the journey is supposed to be truly beautiful and breathtaking. There are several scenic stretches, taking you through Corsica’s mountains, olive groves, and charming villages.
The L’Île-Rousse train station is small and charming, with a waiting room and ticket office.
Between train departures, the station lies completely quiet, but as soon as a train arrives or departs, it comes alive with people and movement.
From L’Île-Rousse, you can travel to Calvi, Bastia, Ajaccio, and more.
Take in the beautiful Balagne hinterland behind L’Île-Rousse
The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Corsica is the mountains of Balagne – the mountainous landscape we pass through to reach L’Île-Rousse (or Calvi). It’s incredibly beautiful.
On our trips northwest, just after turning off at Ponte Leccia and heading north toward the northwest coast, a landscape unfolds that’s almost impossible to describe in words or pictures. The mountains stretch from raw, jagged, dark granite giants to the cutest rolling hills dotted with maquis (almost reminiscent of Mols in Denmark), and as you approach the coast, the most stunning azure sea appears, following you along the shoreline toward L’Île-Rousse.
The view from the car is simply breathtaking, and we know for certain that next time we visit the island, we’ll need to explore this area more closely.
The Balagne region covers a huge natural area, and there are almost no limits to what you can experience here. The coastline, as mentioned, is some of the most beautiful, and the beaches are stunning. Beyond that, you’ll find charming historic villages scattered throughout the area, inviting plenty of hiking adventures, local food, and wine. I can hardly wait to explore more of this region.
We’ve visited Corsica six times now, and not once have we missed driving through the Balagne region.
The area is so vast and spectacular that you could listen to all our holiday playlists on repeat while driving through it. Because this stretch has left such a deep impression on me, it’s the memories of these mountains and stunning coastal views that come to mind when I revisit summer songs on a winter day back home in Denmark.
Balagne, L’Île-Rousse, Corsica. So many adventures.
An island that just keeps on giving.
