On a trek in the Restonica Valley, Corsica

If you didn’t already know, Corsica is so much more than beautiful beaches and turquoise waves you can swim in all day. The island is home to some of the wildest mountains – and actually one of the toughest long-distance treks in Europe. But even if you’re not a hardcore trekker (we’re definitely not), the mountains offer a stunning contrast to the warmth and beauty of the coast and are accessible to most people.

Here’s the story of the day we thought we were heading out on a nice little family hike – but ended up on a rather tough trek in the Restonica Valley.

I die at least once a day in Corsica

This day, I died at least 100 times.
No kidding – I honestly think I have to die at least once a day when I’m traveling around Corsica.

I’m probably a bit of a wimp, but I have a thing about mountain driving that makes me see our car flying off a cliff every single time we get close to one. So driving around Corsica is kind of a challenge for me, since mountain roads are often a must – especially if you, like me (like us), are driven by an endless urge to explore every hidden corner of the island.

Still, it’s exactly those challenges that give me the biggest experiences. The kind that not only enrich me and my family, but also make me feel alive – and awaken my love of life to crazy heights. So fear of heights or not, Corsica’s mountains are a must every single time we visit the island.

Our trek in the Restonica Valley didn’t really challenge my fear of heights – it was the drive up there that had me seeing the end of my life at least 100 times. But more on that at the end of the article. First, a bit about Restonica Valley, and why we look so happy in those photos.

What is the Restonica Valley?

Restonica Valley is one of the most popular areas in central Corsica, as it’s said to be relatively easy to get from the town of Corte into the stunning and dramatic mountains. The word “relatively” depends quite a lot on (as we later found out) how experienced you are at driving tiny, winding mountain roads – with sheer drops, plenty of oncoming traffic, and just enough space for one car at a time.

Because of its natural beauty and the need to protect the environment, Restonica Valley has been designated a “Site Classé” and is part of Corsica’s regional nature park.

The road leading up to the area follows the mountains and the Restonica River, ending at a parking lot where the trek begins. From there, you hike into the mountains and eventually reach the beautiful alpine pool, Lake Melo.

The trek begins

The plan for the day was for our experience to be easy and accessible. We had just come off a few days of intense mountain driving, and I had made it very clear that I wanted our day to be exciting – but definitely more easy-going.

We had read about the Restonica Valley and got the impression that it was a beautiful and easy-to-reach destination for a hike, not far from Corte (which sits right in the heart of the island). We’ve been to Corte many times, and I know – with every fiber of my being – that getting there doesn’t trigger my fear of heights. And according to Google Maps, the road to Restonica Valley didn’t cross any high mountain passes or anything scary like that.

We had a light breakfast and figured we’d probably be back before lunch. Just one of many false assumptions we made about the trek that morning! But off we went, and about an hour later we turned off from Corte, followed the road winding through the mountains toward Restonica Valley, parked the car, and started the trek.

The trek started at a surprisingly beautiful parking lot, where we parked the car (for a fee) in the shade of the pine trees. From there, the path gently ascended, crossing a bridge (pictured below) that offered us a stunning view of where our trek was headed.

After walking for a while along the paved road, we reached the end of the path, where a couple of huts stood, offering snacks and drinks.

From there, the trail became more rugged, crossing over rocks and stones, winding along the cliffside with the beautiful mountains ahead of us. All around us, we could hear the tinkling of goat bells as they climbed the mountainside. The cliffs on either side of the gorge were steep, covered in trees – mostly pines and birches, but also wildflowers.

Below the cliffs, the Restonica River flowed, tumbling over rocks and boulders, creating stunning turquoise pools. The water, coming straight from the mountains, was ice-cold and refreshing, both for the body and the soul.

The air was cooler (compared to the coasts), but we quickly warmed up… and got thirsty. During the breaks we took here and there, the silence of the mountains was palpable, with only the sound of the wind in the pine trees breaking the stillness.

The trek was much longer and harder than we had expected, and hunger had already started to set in after a couple of hours of walking. Our idea of reaching Lake Melo began to fade.

By the time we reached about halfway, we had to assess whether reaching Lake Melo was still an option or if we would have to accept that the beautiful turquoise pool we had arrived at would be our destination for this time. I went ahead and asked some hikers coming in the opposite direction about the conditions for reaching Lake Melo.

Their response was that there was still some distance to cover, pointing up at the steep mountain ahead and mentioning that we had a very steep climb ahead of us, which would involve climbing ladders. This news settled our doubts – it wasn’t going to happen this time.

We now turned instead toward the beautiful pool, where we kicked off our sandals and dipped our toes into the icy water. Some children and adults were playing in the pool, and one man slipped in fully clothed, his entire photo gear getting drenched.

We scrambled around on the rocks and found some small pools of our own, where we soaked in the warm sun, the cold water, and simply the joy of being.

The joy of life was hard to ignore here. And we didn’t even try.

There are many great joys in hiking – the stunning mountains and views, the challenges of walking in the mountains and still pushing through, the fresh air, the peace, and the feeling of being tiny in a world that will still be here in 1000 years.

Another joy of hiking is the pride and satisfaction of completing the trek, then turning around to look back at the path you’ve covered.

What a sight!

This was the story of why we were so happy to be trekking in Restonica Valley, but before I completely wrap up, I also want to share the story of why I “died” at least 100 times that day. Here’s the story.

The road that triggered my fear of death at least 100 times

The road to Restonica Valley is not an easy one when you’re driving. It winds along cliffs and the river, but it’s so narrow that often only one car can fit at a time. Where there are trees on one side of the road, oncoming cars can pass, but in other places, there’s a sheer drop on one side, making it impossible for two cars to share the road at the same time.

The road twists and turns, and you don’t always have the chance to see what’s coming around the next bend. Several times, we had to stop and reverse along the winding road (with a sheer drop on the side) to allow other cars to pass. At other times, it was the other cars that had to reverse for us. Sometimes, it was a whole line of cars that had to back up at once. It was a nightmare, especially when one of the situations also involved a cow suddenly needing space on the road.

The road has several small pull-over areas where you can stop if an oncoming car is approaching. These are also the spots you would reverse to if you’ve passed one. They’re called Zone de croisement and parking in them is prohibited.

Luckily, Peter was driving, and after I threatened to get out of the car and walk the rest of the way, we agreed that I would crawl to the back of the car to sit with Sebastian, where I could wedge myself into the middle of the backseat and focus on what was going on on the iPad instead. That helped a little. On the way back, I took the backseat all the way down, which was an even worse stretch, as I was now sitting on the side of the car directly facing the edge of the road, and the traffic from oncoming cars had increased.

Yes, I died at least 100 times on this trip, but I’m also really happy and grateful to have experienced Restonica Valley and the wild rush it gave us as a family hiking through the mountains.

Are you also passionate about hiking in the mountains – and how do you feel about mountain driving?

We’d love to hear your thoughts and comments – feel free to write to us in the comment section below the post.

We look forward to hearing from you.

  Links

• Europe’s toughest trek: Corsicas GR20
• Valley of Restonica Valley – photos + driving tips
• The Restonica Gorges

  Tips

• Remember cash for the parking lot at Restonica Valley

• Remember good hiking shoes or sandals that can handle rough terrain

• Bring plenty of water

• Have a good meal before you head out

• Pack some snacks for the trek

• Drive early to avoid too many oncoming cars on the road to Restonica Valley

  Here you will find Restonica Valley, Corsica.