When our son, Sebastian, was confirmed, he wished for a trip abroad. We had many ideas and dreams, exploring countless destinations to choose the perfect travel adventure. One of Sebastian’s biggest wishes was to experience a tropical getaway (without the rainy season), wild nature, and a city holiday. The final travel route therefore became: Dubai – Kuala Lumpur – Perhentian Islands – Borneo – Singapore – Dubai.
Dreaming of Borneo
One of our biggest dreams was to see Borneo’s orangutans and proboscis monkeys. There are many ways to experience this on Borneo, but since I cannot trek because of my leg, nor sit for long periods in a boat, our only option was to see Borneo’s orangutans at one of the island’s rehabilitation centers.
One such center is near Sandakan, in northeastern Borneo. To get there, we would first fly to Kota Kinabalu. Kota Kinabalu is a popular starting point for adventures on Borneo. The plan was then to continue on to Sandakan, where we could, among other things, visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.
Change of Travel Plans
The tickets to Kota Kinabalu were already booked when, during a check on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ website, we discovered that they were advising against all travel to the exact area where Sepilok is located. The reason was that there had been murders and kidnappings of tourists by Filipino Islamist militants. That wasn’t exactly the kind of adventure we were looking for!
After a bit of research, we found out that we could visit a similar rehabilitation center in Sarawak, which is about 1,500 km south on Borneo. We therefore changed our route to go to Kuching instead.
We were a bit unsure whether we could fill six days in Kuching, but both the city and Sarawak surprised us and completely stole our hearts. We quickly realized that six days was far from enough. Even if we hadn’t had to cut three days from our schedule due to illness, there would have been so much to experience! I think two to three weeks would be a more suitable amount of time – even for us, who couldn’t go on long treks and tours.
We made the most of our time, and adventures came to us one after another. Here is a small handful of the adventures you can experience in Kuching and its surrounding area.
1. The Borneo adventure begins just above Kuching
There are many kinds of adventures, some of which begin simply with the thought and anticipation of what lies ahead. The view over Borneo was a true kickstart in that regard.
After a single night in Kota Kinabalu, we flew 1,500 km south to land in the city of Kuching. The view from the plane was spectacular. First, we flew over Sabah’s beautiful coral reefs and tropical islands. Then the jungle stretched out beneath us, broken only by rivers and mountains. From the sky, we could see clouds pouring cascades of water over the green landscape. It was an incredible sight.
Borneo’s rainforest lay just below us, steaming, and as we approached Kuching, we flew past the peninsula where Bako National Park is located. Just the thought of all the orangutans and proboscis monkeys possibly sitting in the jungle, peeking out from the treetops, warmed our hearts – and made us smile at each other and cheer with excitement.
Touchdown in Kuching was wet and scorching hot. The air-conditioned taxi drove us into the city, and through the rain-soaked windows, we caught our first glimpses of the city’s life and atmosphere. Somehow, it was fascinating to know that the city was surrounded by the world’s oldest rainforest, and I was so ready to see orangutans swinging from streetlights and giant spiders marching across rooftops.
I can already reveal that didn’t happen. But some adventures grow bigger simply from knowing that there is more than meets the eye. And that was the feeling throughout our stay – Kuching always had just one more adventure it wanted to show us.
2. Exploring Kuching’s Chinatown
The first thing we did after checking into our hotel was to head down to the Sarawak River, which divides Kuching in two. It had grown dusk, and since twilight doesn’t last long in the tropics, darkness came quickly. The rain and thunderstorm stirred childhood memories of cozy autumn afternoons, when I would kick my feet up on our sofa after school and let the day’s events settle quietly around me.
Kuching felt, in some way, calm, safe, and atmospheric. The rain-soaked houses glowed in softened colors, and people jumped through puddles, well-hidden under their umbrellas. Lamps in the city’s houses flickered on around the streets. Our first encounter with Chinatown was wonderful – and it remained so throughout our stay.
What is Kuching’s Chinatown Like?
Kuching’s Chinatown welcomes you with a grand Chinese gate. The neighborhood is full of small Chinese shops and workshops. Here you’ll find bicycle repairers, carpenters, seamstresses, bookstores, hardware stores, cozy little cafés, food stalls, spice shops, and all sorts of little knick-knack stores. Chinatown is used by the locals, and there is a lively buzz of activity and everyday life, even in the evenings.
Chinatown in Kuching has a uniquely warm Chinese atmosphere that I haven’t encountered in other Chinatowns. The buildings are worn but colorful, filled with Chinese characters, and incredibly charming. During our walks through the district, we came across several stunning Chinese temples. Some of them can be visited inside, while others are beautiful to admire from the outside.
3. Embark on a gourmet adventure in Kuching
Our travel experiences are always packed with food adventures. Malaysia serves incredible food, and Kuching is no exception. In fact, the city does it so well that UNESCO recognized Kuching as a “Creative City of Gastronomy” for its innovative approach to celebrating and developing its cultural and ethnic diversity. UNESCO’s recognition is attributed to Sarawak’s creative fusion of local dishes with new, external flavors – an experience you can only have in Kuching. Sarawak is still home to many indigenous groups, and their local dishes, created from native plants and animals, are incredibly diverse and culturally significant.
One place where we particularly felt this fusion was at KANTIN at The Granary. Here, they take Sarawak’s local and ethnic dishes and combine them with international flavors. It’s done with great respect for the traditional recipes and tastes absolutely delicious.
But it’s not only in trendy, acclaimed restaurants that you’ll find amazing food in Kuching. Culinary adventures can be found everywhere in the city, from small eateries to the large food courts scattered around town. You will undoubtedly be introduced to local specialties such as Sarawak Laksa, Nasi Aruk, Pork Satay, Kolo Mee, and Kek Lapis – all local and ethnic dishes that showcase the rich flavors of the region.
4. Cross the Sarawak River in a tambang boat
One of the biggest surprises we encountered in Kuching was the small, colorful tambang boats. Kuching is divided in two by the Sarawak River, and in the old days, these little wooden boats were used to cross the river quickly or to reach stops further along the river. Since the construction of the large Darul Hana Bridge, the boats are now probably used mostly by tourists.
We took a ride on the boats, and it was a lovely way to get around the city. Our original plan had been to buy a one-hour trip and sail down the river, but we didn’t manage it, as our time in the city was cut short due to illness. Still, it’s definitely one of the Kuching city adventures we can warmly recommend.
You can find the wooden boats along the river, near bridges and docking areas. You simply tell the operator where you want to go, agree on a price, and he will take you across the river. The boats are motorized and steered by a single man who stands at the bow to navigate. Inside the boat, there are wooden benches running along each side for passengers to sit on.
I fell in love with the tambang boats because, like so many other things in Kuching, they are small, genuine adventures that aren’t hyped up or made into a big spectacle. The tambang boats are colorful little adventures, quietly going about their own lives – or like little decorated cakes, gliding over a green-brown river (which, by the way, is full of crocodiles).
5. Experience the magic of Kuching’s charming buildings
There are so many nature experiences around Kuching, but when you’re not out seeing orangutans, spotting proboscis monkeys, or trekking, you can still discover plenty of small adventures just by wandering through the city. Kuching has many beautiful houses and buildings that may be a little worn, but that only adds to their charm.
The oldest streets date back to 1864, when the district was ravaged by a massive fire that destroyed most of the houses in Chinatown. Many of the buildings still exude the atmosphere of that era’s working-class neighborhood, with its opium dens and other shady dealings. Today, Kuching is a very peaceful city, so that time is long gone… yet it feels as if the old adventures are still embedded in the walls.
Darul Hana Pedestrian Bridge
Kuching is such a lovely city, but wow, it can be chaotic. Partly because of the bridge over the Sarawak River, the Darul Hana Pedestrian Bridge. The bridge is shaped like a giant yin-yang or “S” and has two masts pointing in opposite directions to symbolize the balance of the many cultures living together in Sarawak. With all the steel wires and masts, the eye doesn’t quite know where to rest, giving the cityscape a somewhat restless feel (at least in our opinion).
But once you go up onto the bridge, it’s a completely different story. Here, the eye has plenty to rest on, and the view – contrary to the bridge’s appearance – is calm and captivating. We didn’t make it all the way across the bridge, as my leg couldn’t manage it, but we reached one of the bridge’s platforms, where we could watch a massive downpour approaching. Here is Peter, with the India Mosque Kuching in the background.
Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building
If you cross the Darul Hana Pedestrian Bridge, you’ll see the large, umbrella-shaped building with a golden roof on your right: the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building. This is Kuching’s legislative complex, where state assembly members from across Sarawak gather to debate and pass laws.
The building is distinctly Malaysian – or perhaps more accurately, very Kuching-style – and after seeing its unique design every day from our hotel window, I grew quite fond of its appearance and character. Next to it stands a gigantic flagpole with Sarawak’s flag fluttering in the wind (see the top photo at the beginning of the page). Seriously, what is it with Malaysia and their enormous flagpoles?
Kuching also has several colonial-era buildings worth noting. For example, there are beautiful structures such as the General Post Office, the Old Courthouse, and The Fort, which date back to the colonial period and the time of Sir James Brooke (the first White Rajah of Sarawak) and Charles Brooke, the second Rajah of Sarawak in the mid-19th century.
6. Visit Kuching’s temples, mosques, and churches
Kuching exudes spirituality and religion in many ways. Here, different beliefs coexist side by side. About 50% of the population is Christian, 34% Muslim, and 12% Buddhist (including Taoists and animists) – something we could clearly sense in the streets, where we saw numerous temples, mosques, and churches.
There is something truly special about cities that cultivate a balance between differences, ethnicities, and faiths. It seems to create a unique warmth among the people, which is utterly infectious and impossible not to feel.
We came across the beautiful India Mosque Kuching and asked if we could visit the mosque inside. We were allowed in and given robes that respectfully covered us before entering. The mosque was incredibly beautiful and serene, and the visit was both fun and cozy, as we met some lovely Malaysians, but it was also a moment that inspired reflection on life.
Religious buildings are beautiful and fascinating to visit. Remember to show respect for different beliefs and follow their rules when you visit.
7. Feel the jungle breathe in Kuching
One of the most amazing things about Kuching is its enormous kapok trees (or silk-cotton trees). These trees are scattered throughout the city, including at Padang Merdeka and The Old Courthouse. It’s as if the jungle has pushed its massive roots under the city and sent them shooting up everywhere, giving the warm city a breath of fresh air.
The kapok trees are ancient and incredibly strong. They adorn the city and provide welcome shade from the sun. Even more than that, they are endlessly beautiful to look at and offer a peaceful refuge to seek shelter under.
It rains a lot in Borneo, and of course, it rains frequently in Kuching as well. We quickly got a couple of cheap umbrellas that we could pull out from our backpacks – and we ended up using them many times throughout the day. A shower in Kuching can be quite intense. If you have the option, choose an umbrella larger than the ones you see in the photos below (and remember, umbrellas can also double as sunshades for the strong tropical sun).
8. Meet the orangutans
One of the greatest adventures you can experience in Borneo is meeting orangutans—either in the wild or at a rehabilitation reserve. Kuching is an excellent base if you want to see these incredible animals. Here are several options:
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Semenggoh Wildlife Centre: This center is a rehabilitation facility for orangutans, located about 24 kilometers from Kuching. Orangutans rescued from captivity or in need of rehabilitation are cared for here. You can visit the center and join guided tours to see orangutans being fed in their natural surroundings. We visited this center since I couldn’t trek, and we couldn’t make it to Bako National Park due to illness. Even though it was “fruit season,” when orangutans usually find their own food, we were lucky enough to see a large male come by.
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Bako National Park: Bako National Park is known for its orangutans and proboscis monkeys. You can take a boat from Kuching to the park and join guided hikes with experienced guides who help track orangutans and other wildlife in the area.
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Matang Wildlife Centre: About an hour’s drive from Kuching, this center focuses on the rehabilitation of orangutans and other wildlife. You can visit and join tours to learn more about orangutans and their conservation.
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Tours and Travel Packages: There are also tour operators in Kuching offering trips and packages that include visits to places where you can see orangutans in the wild. These tours can vary in length and scope and may include multiple destinations beyond orangutans.
Orangutans live in very few places in the world – namely Sumatra and Borneo – and their numbers are unfortunately declining rapidly. Due to deforestation, agriculture, illegal hunting, and the trade of young orangutans as pets, orangutans are classified as a critically endangered species.
When visiting orangutans in the wild, it is important to respect their natural behavior and habitats by following all rules and guidance from guides and visitor centers. It is also crucial to support conservation efforts to protect orangutans and their habitats for future generations.
9. Explore Bako National Park and spot the proboscis monkeys
Bako National Park is a true gem of Borneo, offering a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the island’s breathtaking nature and wildlife. It’s a destination for nature lovers, hikers, birdwatchers, and anyone wishing to experience the spectacular beauty and biodiversity that Borneo has to offer.
The park is renowned for its stunning scenery, with impressive limestone formations, cliffs, gorges, beaches, and mangrove forests. Beyond being a birdwatcher’s paradise, Bako National Park gives you the chance to see fascinating animals such as monkeys, wild boars, deer, crocodiles, snakes, and of course, orangutans and proboscis monkeys. Over 150 bird species have also been recorded in the area, making it a haven for bird enthusiasts.
Our plan had been to visit Bako ourselves, as we dreamed of seeing the proboscis monkeys, which live here. In addition to spotting the monkeys, Bako would have been perfect for me, as my leg limits longer treks. The park has several nature trails and walking paths of manageable lengths. Unfortunately, we couldn’t make it on this trip due to illness.
10. Explore Kuching’s museums
In Kuching, you’ll find several fascinating museums that offer insights into the region’s culture, history, and art. The museums provide a wide range of experiences, giving you a deeper understanding of Sarawak’s unique heritage. Depending on your interests, you can choose to visit some or all of them to gain a richer appreciation of this fascinating part of Malaysia.
Here are some of the most popular museums to consider visiting:
- Sarawak Museum: The Sarawak Museum is one of the oldest and most iconic museums in Malaysia. It houses an impressive collection of archaeological finds, ethnographic artifacts, art, and historical items that provide a window into Sarawak’s culture and history.
Sarawak Museum, Kuching, Malaysia -
Fort Margherita: This historic fort was built by the White Rajahs as protection against pirates. It now serves as a museum where you can learn about Sarawak’s colonial past and military history.
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Textile Museum Sarawak: Dedicated to textiles and textile traditions in Sarawak, this museum allows you to explore various types of fabrics, patterns, and techniques that are an important part of Sarawak’s culture.
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Chinese History Museum: This museum delves into Kuching’s Chinese heritage and history. Exhibits cover Chinese migration to Sarawak and their contributions to the community.
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Sarawak Timber Museum: This museum explores the timber industry and the history of logging in Sarawak.
11. Get insight and hands-on experience of Sarawak’s culture and history at the Cultural Village
The Cultural Village is a cultural center where you can learn about Sarawak’s various ethnic groups, their traditions, culture, and way of life. The area features authentic reconstructions of traditional longhouses, which are the typical dwellings of Sarawak’s different ethnic communities, including the Iban, Bidayuh, Orang Ulu, and many more.
On our last day, we chose to visit the Cultural Village. We had just recovered from three days of food poisoning and were feeling a bit weak, but we managed to take a Grab for the 32 km ride to get there. It was a delightful experience and fascinating to see how the different longhouses are constructed and organized.
When you visit the Cultural Village, you move from longhouse to longhouse and meet local residents who give you the opportunity to try various activities, such as weaving, bow and arrow making, and sampling different local ethnic dishes. Each day, you can also experience dance performances, musical presentations, and rituals performed by local artists wearing traditional costumes.
The Cultural Village is a lively and engaging way to learn about Sarawak’s cultural heritage and communities. It allows you to immerse yourself in different cultures and traditions, providing valuable insight into the island’s diverse and colorful cultural legacy.
The area where the Cultural Village is located is incredibly beautiful. It sits at the foot of Mount Santubong, which we were lucky enough to have a view of from our hotel window.
Visiting Kuching was a bit like opening Pandora’s box. Exciting adventures kept appearing that we couldn’t wait to experience. Our stay was unfortunately challenged by health issues, and we cannot recommend it enough to anyone planning a trip: give yourself plenty of time – there is so much to see and so many adventures you won’t want to miss, just like we did.
We will definitely return to Kuching – certainly with more time, and perhaps extending our trip to include Kota Kinabalu and Sabah in general.
So… for now – have an amazing time in Kuching! Say hello to Borneo for us and tell it we’ll be back!
Useful links
- Semengoh Wildlife Centre
- Matang Wildlife Centre
- Baku National Park
- Sarawak Cultural Village
- Sarawak Museum / Textile museum / Chinese History Museum /
