This was what we had imagined when we decided to give our son a real snorkeling experience in a tropical paradise. Our expectations were therefore quite high as we boarded the speedboat in the Malaysian town of Besut to sail to the Perhentian Islands.
Peter had already visited the islands back in 1994 while backpacking around Asia, and he was excited to see whether the islands were still as exotic as they were 30 years ago.
All of us were looking forward to enjoying island life and diving into the tropical sea, and we were curious to find out whether 4 days of island living would be the right fit for us.
Arrival at Perhentian
There is something truly special about arriving on an island. Transporting yourself across the sea to step ashore feels exotic to me – no matter which island it is. That feeling that spreads through your body when the island appears on the horizon, the excitement of what awaits us, the details becoming clearer… and then… when the engine is turned off and everything goes quiet, and only the sound of waves lapping against the boat reaches my ears… that feeling is nothing short of magical.
That was exactly how it felt arriving at Perhentian. The jungle-covered islands rising out of the turquoise sea, the palm trees and Malaysian wooden stilt houses, the jetties where the boats were moored, and all the dreams suddenly materializing in front of us. The scene was perfect!
After managing a rather awkward climb from the speedboat with my somewhat stiff leg, and surviving a long, swaying pontoon bridge, we finally set foot on land. We dropped our bags in our little wooden hut and hurried down to the restaurant to get something to eat and drink. We could hardly wait to get out and explore the island’s beaches and its gorgeous sea.
The beaches of Perhentian
The beaches vary greatly depending on where you stay on the Perhentian Islands. We stayed on Pulau Perhentian Besar, right where the channel runs between the two islands, giving us a view from our beach of the neighboring Pulau Perhentian Kecil. Our huts were located right on the beach, where there were also 2–3 beachfront restaurants and a few more within walking distance.
The beaches where we stayed had light coral sand and were lined with tall, swaying palm trees. The sea was crystal-clear, and the urge to dive down to see tropical fish, octopuses, sharks, and coral was everywhere. The water is 27–30°C year-round, and the gentle waves and sandy seabed make the sea incredibly pleasant for swimming for both children and adults.
This was exactly what we had dreamed of – and now Sebastian could finally experience a true tropical island.
It didn’t take long before we jumped into our swimwear, our bodies glistening with sunscreen, and, with masks and snorkels, dove into Perhentian’s true treasure… the sea.
Crystal-clear water, coral, and tropical fish
Oh, what a delight it was to wade into the warm water, adjust my mask, and dive beneath the surface of the sea. The visibility was unmatched, and all around us, fish of every size and color swarmed. A long-suppressed longing to relive my snorkeling experience on Tioman Island in the 1990s almost exploded within me. Here I was, back under the sea, where the sun’s clear rays made it the brightest place in the universe, surrounded by fish and crabs and the nibbling sounds of coral-eating fish… I was in pure bliss.
We snorkeled every single day. And each time we dove beneath the surface, we discovered something new that we happily shared with each other. We snorkeled from several different beaches, but eventually found our own little spot, which became our favorite place. The sea changed each time, depending on the time of day and the weather. The best part was the feeling of expanding our snorkeling territory and, in that way, encountering new species of fish and coral.
The water teemed with fish – clownfish, parrotfish, surgeonfish, stingrays, triggerfish, crabs, and reef sharks. We cheered every time we spotted something new, and I have to say, as someone who has a “fish phobia,” I was delightfully challenged – especially the times I swam close to the reef sharks. One more month in that sea and my fish phobia would be cured.
The animals of the Perhentian Islands
But it’s not only the sea around the Perhentian Islands that’s rich in wildlife. The islands are home to beautiful butterflies, eagles, sunbirds, and hornbills, as well as geckos, monitor lizards, and hermit crabs. There are also spiders and snakes. We spotted stunning birds, butterflies, geckos, monitor lizards, and spiders – the latter both in our hut and two huge ones among the palm trees.
In the photo below, a monitor lizard is making its way up to one of the beachfront restaurants, apparently in search of a snack. We saw several very large monitor lizards – it’s a truly fascinating animal. And, of course, there were also the squirrels, begging at the tables and, like little food thieves, lurking in the palms to steal food when we weren’t looking.
The food on the Perhentian Islands
What do you dream of eating on a tropical island where you swim all day? Do you dream of lobster and grilled seafood, or exotic freshly caught fish? You can absolutely get that on the Perhentians – at least where we stayed. Every evening, the grill was fired up, and the freshly caught fish and other meats were grilled to the guests’ requests.
Do you dream of Malaysian dishes, local specialties, Western food, vegetarian options, and dessert? You can get all of that where we stayed. I imagine it varies depending on where you stay on the island, but you can take a water taxi to the different restaurants scattered around the island if you want to try something else.
Every day we ate at one of the restaurants close to our resort. There, we dined right on the beach and enjoyed the most delightful freshly pressed juices – especially mango and matcha smoothies. In the evenings, we had cold beers, beaded with condensation in the tropical evening heat.
Breakfast often consisted of banana pancakes, roti canai, omelets – or some kind of sandwich. Yes, indeed, we lacked nothing.
The best part was that we always sat outside, always with the sea at our side. Just exactly as our tropical island dream had envisioned.
Relaxation and recharging
Amid all the preparations and expectations for visiting the Perhentian Islands for four nights, there was also a slight hint of worry. How would we cope on an island where the only things to do were sleep, snorkel, eat, and relax? Would we manage it? Would Sebastian get bored? Was four days perhaps too long?
It goes without saying that there was practically no internet on the island. We were all prepared for that. We must admit, we tend to check our phones a bit too often when we travel – especially to sink into a personal bubble after a day full of activities. That, of course, wasn’t possible here. The question was: would we miss it?
When I think back on the four days we spent on the Perhentian Islands, not for a single moment do I recall feeling bored. Not once.
Boredom often arises when you lack inspiration or interest in your surroundings. It can also appear when you’re under-challenged or repeatedly doing the same activities.
Our days on Perhentian Island were none of these things. Everything was new to us – the ferry, the pontoon bridge, island life, snorkeling, the fish, the beaches, and simply being together on an island. We talked a lot about what we saw and experienced. We investigated things we didn’t understand (like when they were fumigating for dengue mosquitoes on the other island), played loads of card games, relaxed, went for walks, swam, and swam again. And again.
By the time we began to establish daily routines and some things started to repeat, it was already time to go home. Four days turned out to be absolutely perfect for us. We never got bored. On the contrary.
Evenings on the Perhentian Islands
This is what you look like after enjoying 4 days on the Perhentian Islands
After four days in the tropical paradise, we packed our bags, checked out, and sailed back to the mainland – satisfied from the warmth, the beaches, the swaying palms, and island life. With saltwater in our hair and a sense of zen in our minds, we continued our adventure in Malaysia – specifically, a week on Borneo.
When life feels a little tough at home and I sometimes lie awake struggling to sleep, I often think back to our four days on the Perhentian Islands.
In my mind, I dive into the clear sea, where the sun’s rays dance around the coral and everything becomes quiet. Completely quiet. The only sounds I hear and focus on are the gentle nibbling of the fish…
It’s out there. It’s there right now.
