We travelled to Kuala Lumpur in the summer of 2023, which was my third time there after previous visits in 1994 and 2001. I had been looking forward to revisiting the city, which I actually have good memories of, despite it being a big and noisy place.
However, my expectations weren’t fully met this time, for several possible reasons – but even if the city didn’t quite live up to what I’d hoped for, there were still many wonderful things that reminded me why Kuala Lumpur is worth remembering.
Fast backwards – back in 1994 I stepped into Kuala Lumpur for the first time. At that time, the city was a blend of tradition and modernity, where the old railway station stood as a monument to the city’s historical soul. Alongside other buildings and cultural landmarks, the city told a story of its origins and evolution.
Kuala Lumpur is one of the fastest-growing cities in Asia, which in itself can be fascinating, but I can’t help feeling that it comes at a price.
We took a tour around Kuala Lumpur and visited several different attractions, each telling a kind of story – but the question was: what kind of story?
Over the years, Kuala Lumpur has undergone a transformation that makes me wonder: Has Kuala Lumpur bargained away its soul?
Here are my experiences and reflections from Kuala Lumpur in 2023.
Petronas Towers
It’s impossible to ignore the changes Kuala Lumpur’s skyline has undergone. The Petronas Towers, with their impressive futuristic design, dominate the cityscape and symbolize Malaysia’s economic ambitions. These towers are undeniably fascinating. When I first visited Kuala Lumpur, construction was already underway, and today they rise majestically, visible from many parts of the city. They are not only a new attraction but also a sign of an era moving away from traditional values, influencing far more than just the architecture.
During our visit in 2023, it was impossible not to be impressed by the Petronas Towers. They stand beside KLCC Park, a charming little green oasis in the midst of the city’s hustle and bustle, and in some ways they have created the special blend of old and new that I remember Kuala Lumpur for.
Chinatown and street food
Chinatown is filled with stalls where you can buy all sorts of things. Over the years, it has become more and more touristy, just like many similar markets around the world. Almost everything sold there was cheap counterfeit goods and tourist trinkets, which was, of course, a bit disappointing but not exactly surprising – I’ve experienced the same in many places.
For me, one of the big highlights of Chinatown used to be the street food – but unfortunately, we were disappointed. Both Lise and I have been to Kuala Lumpur several times, and we remember Chinatown as having great street food. This time, however, we found nothing more than a few small stalls selling bits of food, but without much charm. It’s possible that we simply had too high expectations or were remembering incorrectly where the good food used to be. Whatever the reason, we didn’t find it.
What we did discover, though, is that the shopping malls have excellent food hawkers, where we found really good and affordable food – although not with quite the same charm as the small street stalls we both remembered from our previous visits to Kuala Lumpur.
Batu Caves
One of the things we knew in advance we wanted to experience in Kuala Lumpur was Batu Caves, located about 13 kilometers north of the city. Batu Caves is an important Hindu site and also a major tourist attraction. The place is known for its massive limestone formations, estimated to be over 400 million years old, and it houses several Hindu temples and shrines, especially the Temple Cave. A striking feature at the entrance is the impressive golden statue of Lord Murugan, a central figure in Hindu mythology. The site did not disappoint, and we were genuinely thrilled by our experience there – read more about our Batu Caves visit.
I would definitely recommend experiencing Batu Caves if you visit Kuala Lumpur.
Kuala Lumpur as a whole
It may be true that Kuala Lumpur doesn’t overflow with major sights, but simply walking around the city is interesting. For example, you can visit Merdeka Square, one of the most famous squares in Kuala Lumpur, also known as “Independence Square.” It is also one of the largest squares in the world and is surrounded by several historic buildings. Of course, there are plenty of shopping opportunities as well, and for me, just walking around and observing the people and buildings in a city is fascinating.
It’s still interesting to walk around Kuala Lumpur, even though I have visited the city several times. This time, however, I felt that there was more pollution, more old buildings in disrepair, and many new buildings that had drawn attention away from some of the city’s older cultural charm. This brings me to the old train station, where I felt this shift most clearly.
The old Train Station
The first two times I visited Kuala Lumpur, I was very impressed by the old train station, which has a strong colonial character. It was built by the British between 1910 and 1917 and, to me, stood as a symbol of a bygone era. The building was more than just a transport hub; it was a living museum, filled with stories from the past.
When we passed by the building in 2023, it had been transformed into a rather sad train station, surrounded by large roads that dominate the area rather than allowing the building to stand out as it should – a beautiful piece of architecture. There was also little maintenance or effort to preserve the building’s original character.
Of course, it’s just an old building, and not everything should be preserved just because a nostalgic tourist happens to pass by. Still, I have a feeling that it also symbolizes the way things are going in Kuala Lumpur more broadly.
Have money and prestige taken over the charm?
In many ways, it feels as if Kuala Lumpur is trying to become the next Singapore. The sense that there always has to be something new, that new buildings and prestige projects must rise to show significance, is palpable across much of the city. Tall skyscrapers tower everywhere – granted, they already did back in 1994 – but it feels as though the city has forgotten to hold on to its own identity in the process.
Singapore, in many ways, is a modern city with enormous skyscrapers, yet you can still sense an effort to preserve some of the old. For example, Singapore still has Raffles Hotel, Chinatown, the Sultan’s Mosque, numerous temples, and I could go on. What all these historic places in Singapore share is a conscious effort to maintain some of their soul amidst the ultra-modern cityscape – and I feel that they have succeeded.
Kuala Lumpur, on the other hand, has many large buildings and a constantly changing skyline, and it doesn’t seem that much thought is given to preserving cultural and historical value. They may not demolish buildings like the old train station, but they also do not protect the surroundings or prioritize maintenance.
For me, it’s a little sad to see, but perhaps I am just a nostalgic traveler who feels that the city’s soul was lost as development accelerated. One thing is certain: Sebastian actually found Kuala Lumpur exciting to explore, and for me, that’s what matters most.
