We had read a bit about the place – the small (formerly) fishing village of Bangbao, on the southern tip of Koh Chang. Allegedly, it was somewhat of a tourist trap, but since we arrived in the off-season, we had a slightly different experience, in fact, we were very surprised and had quite an adventure that day.
We wanted to explore a bit of the island since we had finally made it to the other side of the world and had driven most of the day to reach Thailand’s second-largest island, Koh Chang. This day, we were actually aiming for a market. Sebastian had received some holiday money from his grandmother, and the money was burning a hole in his pocket. He wanted to find gifts for his friends back home.
We had prepared ourselves for the place to be quite touristy. But the idea that the village consisted of small huts on stilts along a 700-meter long pier piqued our curiosity.
As we were dropped off by the taxi-bus, we stood in front of the pier jutting out from the small village. Long and covered, it extended as far as the eye could see. We were practically the only tourists. It was the rainy season in Thailand, and especially on Koh Chang, it rains a lot during this time of year. But right now, it didn’t bother us. It wasn’t raining all the time, anyway – although it was indeed quite a bit more rain than we experienced in Bangkok.
And so, we went on a hunt for gifts for our friends. The pier was lined with small tourist shops on stilts. Behind the shops, there were small walkways leading to the huts where the locals lived. Further out on the pier, there were also restaurants, cafes, and dive shops. After finding a couple of gifts, we reached the beautiful fishing boats gently swaying in the waves. Empty. Some were fishing, and others drove by on scooters.
The Thai boats fascinate me. They are made of wood and painted in the most beautiful, colorful hues. At the bow, they are richly decorated with colored pieces of fabric, and many of them have flowers tied around them. Often, they use the colors from the Thai flag (red, white, and blue).
The colored pieces of fabric and the beautiful flowers on the boats are indeed stunning, but they are not just for decoration’s sake. They are there to bring luck and protection out at sea by honoring the spirits of the sea, particularly Mae Yanang – the goddess of travel, who is said to reside in the boat.
At the very end of the pier stood a large, elegant, white lighthouse. Naturally, adorned with colorful Thai decorations.
It was also on this pier that Peter tried what he dubbed the “Trust Bench.” The “Trust Bench” was a lovely bench set up on the pier as a railing. If you lean back and relax, it’s because you have complete trust that the bench is in good condition. Peter was trusting and took a rest in the shade.
Bangbao has previously been the center of the island Koh Chang and consisted of fishermen long ago. Today, they have replaced their fishing nets with souvenir shops that are tightly packed (and covered) along the pier. Nowadays, Bangbao consists of about 90% shopping stores and 10% fishing.
The man in the picture below is likely one of the 10% who still earns a living through fishing. We were sitting, enjoying a cold Chang, and Sebastian was having a mango lassi when we noticed him on the water not far from where we sat. His quiet movements and presence in what he was doing were beautiful. And we became completely silent as we sat there, watching his movements.
Koh Chang is an island filled with mountains, jungle, waterfalls, and small villages scattered around. Bangbao has undergone tremendous development in recent decades due to tourism. I haven’t experienced this firsthand, only the surroundings. And I believe I could easily recommend going there in July.
Take a taxi-bus to Bangbao and enjoy the silence, the beautiful sea, and the bounty-like beaches around. Let yourself relax on a bench on a pier. Stretch out while you observe the slow movements of a fisherman at sea. See the beautifully painted and decorated boats. Eat a little, drink a little. Enjoy the sun between the rain showers.
You’ll surely have an adventure on a July day – in Bangbao.
Good luck 🙂
Thank you so much 🙂