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We have traveled to many places around the world and have stayed in various types of accommodations, including naturist campsites and naturist B&Bs. However, we have only stayed once at a luxury naturist resort, which is precisely what we are reviewing here: Vritomartis in Crete.
We arrived by plane at Chania Airport, where we had rented a car to drive across to the other side of the island to the town of Chora Sfakion. This town is away from mass tourism, and we were excited to see what this side of the island had to offer. The journey took us over mountains and down winding roads with sheep and goats grazing by the roadside. The drive itself was an adventure. Our destination turned out to be just before the town of Chora Sfakion, where we turned down a small road leading to the resort.
First Impressions
When we arrived at the place, it struck us as very much like a nice hotel. Having stayed in a wide variety of accommodations during our travels, we were a bit like, “Well, we’ve seen this before,” and weren’t overly impressed. We parked the car and went inside to the reception.
At the reception, we were greeted by friendly staff who gave us the keys to our bungalow and provided some information about the place. It’s worth noting that the staff were fully clothed, which hasn’t always been the case at naturist accommodations we’ve stayed at.
As we walked through the reception and outside to the area where our bungalow was located, we were welcomed by a large pool area and a lounge area where one could eat and drink. In fact, it was more inviting than our initial assumptions.
The Rooms
Our bungalow was quite standard. It had comfortable beds, a TV, and everything you would expect from a good hotel. Everything was clean and well-maintained, with no doubt that things were in order. However, for us, a hotel room is usually “just” a hotel room, as we mainly use it for sleeping.
There was a small terrace for our room where we could sit and enjoy the evening. The terrace overlooked olive trees and beautiful Cretan nature, which definitely enhanced the experience. We also didn’t experience any noise from other guests at night, which we greatly appreciated.
The Food
One of the things that really stands out at Vritomartis is their food.
We had a half-board stay, which included breakfast and dinner. This worked out well for us, as our son was 4 years old at the time, making everything much easier. It can be quite variable how the food is at a hotel, and we were a bit concerned that it might become monotonous. We also worried that, like many places, it would consist of buffet-style food. Our concerns were completely dispelled – the food was truly excellent and varied.
In the morning, there was a breakfast buffet with fresh fruit, various cereals, croissants, bread, and more. The selection wasn’t extraordinary, but the quality of the food was very good. It was clear that the chefs put effort into the food, using fresh ingredients.
In the evenings, there was a range of Creole dishes. They served fish dishes with freshly caught fish, olives, pasta, delicious home-grown vegetables, and tasty desserts. The food was well-prepared and tasted really good, and they managed to vary the dishes from day to day, so we never got bored with the options.
Facilities / Activities
Even though there was a beach just 700 meters from the hotel, having a pool on-site was very important to us. Our son loved swimming, and it was nice to be able to easily jump into the pool. There was both a children’s pool and a regular swimming pool, which was great. I enjoyed taking a swim in the morning and then relaxing by the children’s pool, chatting and lounging while Sebastian swam around.
However, we did experience a funny moment at the children’s pool on the second-to-last day. A little boy, probably a couple of years old, stood at the edge of the pool and started urinating directly into it. It wasn’t really anyone’s fault, and we couldn’t help but laugh a bit, but it did mean we avoided the children’s pool for the rest of the holiday.
The resort also offered many other activities, such as archery, a playground for kids, a pool table, tennis, table tennis, giant chess, and more. We didn’t use many of these facilities, but many others did. If our son had been older or if we had been there as a couple, we might have taken advantage of more of the activities.
There was also a bar area where you could get a drink in the evening, which we visited several times. They offered a wide range of drinks, and they were quite good (we tried quite a few of them ).
Naturism
Since this wasn’t our first time staying at a naturist resort, nudity wasn’t a big adjustment for us. However, it varies from place to place where nudity is accepted on the resort. At Vritomartis, all outdoor areas are naturist or “clothing optional,” with the exception of the pool area and the beach, where nudity is required. In all indoor areas (with the exception of your room, of course), clothing is required.
We actually found it quite pleasant that clothing was required in the indoor areas. Especially in the restaurant, it was nice that people had to wear clothes. It can feel a bit unhygienic in places where you’re allowed to dine nude, which we’ve only experienced once. Overall, we thought their nudity policy at the resort was quite good. However, it was a bit strange that we always saw staff in clothes, which can give a slightly imbalanced feeling.
For those new to naturist accommodation, this is a great place to start – whether you’re single, a couple, or a family. Vritomartis offers very well-organized conditions, and you feel completely comfortable being there.
The Beach
Vritomartis has its own naturist beach. While the beach is also publicly accessible, I would guess that most of the visitors are guests of Vritomartis. The beach is called Filaki Beach and is located 700 meters from the resort. The walk to the beach takes about 15 minutes from the hotel complex and goes along a small road through the Cretan landscape, accompanied by sheep and goats. There is also a free shuttle bus service from the main building of the resort to the naturist beach several times a day. We actually chose to drive to the beach, mainly because it was a long walk for a little boy in the blazing sun.
The beach itself is quite good, consisting of small pebbles, and the clear blue water is inviting and pleasant. There are loungers and umbrellas available on the beach, which is great if you plan to spend several hours under the blazing sun. If you get thirsty or hungry, there’s also a small snack bar where you can get cold drinks and snacks. Last but not least, there are also restrooms and showers on the beach.
Our Evaluation
If you’re into “standard” hotel luxury with all the trimmings, Vritomartis is definitely a place for you. The resort is of high quality, and the food is truly exceptional. We also appreciated being away from mass tourism, as Vritomartis is located away from the large hotel areas.
What we missed was a bit more “character,” something that set it apart. We had stayed at other places with a more “hippie vibe,” which we actually quite liked – without it being over the top. We felt that aspect was a bit lacking here.
Additionally, at that time, it would have been nice to have more children around for Sebastian to play with. In hindsight, this was probably more about being there slightly off-season.
